Router Boss questions before decision to purchase.

Marty

New member
So, I am considering the purchase of a router "jig" machine for my use. Looking at Router Boss because it seems to be the most versatile. However, I am concerned about its capacity. Due to the vertical nature in which the work piece is fixed to the machine. If I wanted to machine a mortise or tenon into the end of long part, like a rail on a beds headboard or footboard. Or if I were making a fireplace mantel and wanted to dovetail the mantel on the ends, how do you attach that piece to the Router Boss to cut that joint. Not to be a smart-alik but do I mount the Router Boss up high and get on a ladder to perform the cuts? Those pieces are over 60" in length. How would you accomplish that task?

Other machines with the horizontal clamping nature of the setup longer material seems not to be a concern.

T
The other concern I have is that I have a brand new Triton 3 1/4 hp. plunge router that I would like to use. It is my understanding that the Router Boss is set up to accept the DeWalt router. I really like that Triton router and have nothing but bad luck with DeWalt tools. So, much so if I have to use a DeWalt router on the Router Boss I won't buy it. Can the Router Boss be ordered to accept a different router that DeWalt?

Thanks,

Marty
 

larry.thomson

Moderator
welcome to the forum -- hope we can provide some help --

i believe you are correct that the longest board you could cut dovetails in will be determined by how far off the floor the device is mounted -- i think i have close to 40" in my setup -- i mounted mine on top of an old worktable because i didn't have any free wall space -- and because i am apparently getting shorter as i age, i made a 4" platform i can stand on to get a better look at what's going on if needed -- so to approach a longer piece -- i would have to get creative about joining 2 ? 3? smaller pieces together -- say 2 outside sections at 25" in dark/light wood with a center section at 10" in contrasting color all joined together by thru dovetails -- you could cut them large perhaps if you thought that looked better -- one advantage of the router boss is that it allows you lots of latitude in what you can do -- but does have some limitations -- i bought mine because i needed to turn round posts for a desk project -- and it did 30" spindles, 3" diameter with ease -- if you add the motor drive option -- you can increase the working length to 38" or so -- for a bedpost perhaps -- so a wide variety of router based cuts are available -- i did lock miter joints on pieces longer than 40" but the long piece was the horizontal board so the length was not an issue --

i share your feelings about DeWalt -- had to replace mine (after 5 years) a couple months ago -- first one i got vibrated badly about a speed setting of 4 -- second one is working OK -- i was lucky that son-in-law has an in with DeWalt and helped me --have you talked to lewis about the triton ??
i vaguely remember that other routers can be adapted to the router boss but no details -- but it seems to me i saw/read something about a triton being adapted -- hopefully, someone in the forum can advise --

larry
 

mfpiechowski

New member
I'm a step or two ahead of you Marty. I decided that the concept of a sliding-rail router jig would be a good addition to my shop, so I just bought a RouterBoss. I'll be assembling mine this weekend if all goes to plan. It will be about 48 inches off the floor, that way I can park the wood lathe beneath it.

I'm also exploring other router options. The older DeWalt DW625 has apparently been phased out and replaced by a newer model, the DW-625P, but that router is not available anywhere I can find yet. I am also not a fan of DeWalt routers, also based on past experiences, but to be fair, I have never owned a DW625. Both of these DeWalt routers appear to be made in Italy, which suggests that Elu is still the manufacturer of the newer model too. I have also looked at the Triton, and I am also looking at the Makita, but I have not decided yet.

From what I see with my RouterBoss, the key to mounting a new router is that any new router base mounting holes do not go through the wires in the sub-base. Router alignment is also critical, the bit has to be centered and the stop bar has to be aligned correctly, but with care, I think I can handle that part. The challenge for me is that I do not have the Makita, Triton, or any other router base plate dimensions to work with. I think it would be pretty trivial to design a drilling jig for whatever router I choose, centering it over the existing base cutout could also be done without too much difficulty.

As far as long workpieces? I agree, but then - how would such a long workpiece have been dovetailed in the first place? Probably on a bench, cut by hand. Though we bought the bedroom set, I also have a mantle on my short list of woodworking projects to get done, so I will have to think about how I can safely handle a 6-foot-long workpiece if I decide to dovetail it.
 

mfpiechowski

New member
I elected to go with a Makita router, specifically the RP2301FC. Turns out that it shares the same baseplate bolt pattern with the DeWalt, so it bolted into place on my RouterBoss with no modifications needed. I did use some M4X16mm button-head screws insterad of the OEM screws as the Makita screws were countersunk. I also had to remove the template guide bushing clip and springs. The Makita hole pattern is an 88 mm by 95 mm rectangle.
 

larry.thomson

Moderator
very interesting -- be looking forward to continuing posts on how it performs -- it would be useful to have the alternative -- please keep us updated

larry
 

Marty

New member
mfpiechowski: It's not hard to be two steps ahead of me. LOL. You are correct that the times one needs to machine an end on stock longer than 48" is rare but sometimes people make claims that the machine can do everything! I was being a little sarcastic but also, I wondered if I missed something. It would not take much to fabricate a jig to cut a mortise and use a loose tenon to join a long rail or possibly fabricate the rail as Larry says in shorter pieces with some accented joinery.
I inquired to Chipsfly about what it takes to mount the Triton router. Lewis sent me a nice reply that basically the Triton router needs extensions on the plunge assist bar connection bars.
I suspected that the Makita router would have the same baseplate bolt pattern that is on the DeWalt. You won't be disappointed with that Makita router. As I stated I have had many Makita power tools and have had good luck with all of them.
Today, I am going to measure the Triton baseplate hole pattern. I will post what that is probably this evening.

As Larry says, keep us posted on your progress with RouterBoss. I am going to save some $$ for my purchase in the future.
Thanks for your input.

Marty
 

Ray

Member
My approach is to cut all of my tenons using the table saw and router table. So material size is not too much of an issue. I set the fence on the table saw to cut the face of the tenon, then use a slot cutter on the router table to trim waste on sides and edges. I use the RB to mill mortises. I like this setup since most of the tenons on a particular project are cut at the same length and depth. Once that is established on each machine cutting tenons becomes a good process flow and the RB is dedicated to mortises.
 

Marty

New member
I measured my Triton router base this afternoon and it is 103 mm x 103 mm. The square is a little offset but still square. I guess its like a parallelogram. I was in my local Rockler store and they had both the Makita and Triton 3 1/4 hp routers side by side. I can see what Lewis was showing me on his reply to my inquire. The plunge assist would need some extension. But, what still confuses me is if the Makita bolt pattern is the same as the DeWalt, then how does the Triton fasten to the Router Boss. Would I be required to drill new mounting holes in the Router Boss? If there is someone using a Triton Router on the Router Boss what does it take to use the Triton.
I am not opposed to using a Makita Router. Makita tools have served me well. But, I have this brand new Triton router that I would like to use. So, if there is any Triton router users on their Router Boss give me some advice on installation.

Marty
 

mfpiechowski

New member
For anyone else considering the Makita, when you remove the depth stop turret, there is a hole in the baseplate casting for the indexing ball that is right below the depth stop screw. Unfortunately, that means that the end of the screw drops into the hole a little bit, causing cuts to be a little bit deeper than my gauge blocks. Some sort of a larger foot for the depth stop rod or a cover for the hole will be required for accurate depth settings, I am sure that I will come up with something.
 

larry.thomson

Moderator
thanks for keeping us updated -- i'd be curious how it handles a collet extension if you have one -- i tend to use one a lot -- and how easy it is to use the lock on trigger switch with it mounted in?on? the router boss baseplate -- i'm afraid i would have to become more ambidextrous than i am today with the depth setting and plunge lock on the left side -- but i guess i'm just used to the dewalt --
 

mfpiechowski

New member
Haven't bought a collet extension yet, but it appears that MuscleChuck offers one if I decide I need it. I have a lot to figure out before I worry about that though.

I am trying to figure out how the plunge assist will work, that's likely the next addition for me. Looks like I can just place it right over the top of the handles, so it should work as intended.

As far as the trigger and lock? I will report back on that, it seemed fine while I was playing with it last night, I did not notice anything "odd". The safety lock did take a bit of getting used to, but it seemed like it operated OK.
 

Marty

New member
mf: I believe Lewis has a variety of pieces for the plunge assist to adapt to different routers. You might want to contact him. IMHO

Regarding mounting my Triton router on Router Boss I received a very nice photo illustrated description on using a transition plate for a Triton router. I will need to remove the phenolic base off the Triton and drill the transition plate to fit the Triton to the Router Boss. It doesn't seem to be too difficult. The photos show a Ridgid router being adapted to Router Boss. Not sure yet if I want to do that. I just might buy a Makita router like mf did. I have some time since I need to free up some cash before I pull the trigger.
 
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